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3

use circuit breakers. That is the route I go. I really like the following: Allen Bradely 1492-ghXXX where XXX is the amp rating. Ex: a 4 amp fuse would be 1494-gh040, and a 10 amp 1494-gh100. they are slim profile, but are expensive as hell (as if sold by Lucifer himself - $120CAD!!!). Try to find cheap ones on Amazon or ebay. Another manufacturer, whose ...


2

Your maximum power is already given by the driver. Assuming that 24V motors are easier to come by, $$24V * 43A = 1023 W$$ electrical power. I am assuming that you have the combined maximum output at $43A$. Depending on what type of motor you find with $24V$ Voltage and $1kW$ power you can add a gearbox and adjust wheel diameters to get to a desired ...


2

If you want to test the motor, just apply a DC source to it directly rather than using the l298. A 12V car battery is a source you likely have access to that can supply enough current so you can test the torque and speed. Regarding the pwm control, you need to have sensor feedback. Then you will be able to use a control algorithm to, in effect, sense when ...


1

Besides the control code, I wonder whether the physics is worth a look: Is there enough instantaneous torque to accelerate the rotor's moment of inertia as fast as you want? The torque is proportional to the current. Slow current risetime will give you slow acceleration. dI/dt = V/L. The motor inductance (L) limits how fast the current can increase (dI/dt)...


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